We have found that the only people who want to discuss this subject are those that are in it for the sake of arguing.

Please drop the subject, or if needed (and I really hate doing this) Ill remove the entire topic from the server's MySQL database directly.

WE DONT ENCRYPT.

DONE.

NO MORE.

Now wheres the Bacardi.....

In case you're still wondering, I would recommend reading the following article: http://www.qsl.net/kb9mwr/projects/wireless/Data Encryption is Legal.pdf

Will this do the HSMM-MESH without extra work?

Same as the WRT54GL?

Thanks!

David

Has anybody done anything with Linksys RTP300 or  WRTP54G Broadband Routers with 2 phone ports for VOIP? Maybe tying them into the WRT54G(S) routers?

I have 2 WRT54GS and 3 WRT54G units that I have flashed. There are two more on the shelf that I have not touched. Those two might be up for trade. I have been working on tripod antenna poles. I have been thinking a couple of base units and some portable units. Antennas seem to be the problem. Doug k5hmy@arrl.net

Thanks.

I should have asked when I posted about any issues that using adapters

might have when interfacing or should I just remove the connectors there

now and replace with SMA or N's and be done with it.

I usually am playing up at 10.386.1 GHZ and have found when  I try to use

one of the generic adapters, I have huge attenuation when I put them inline.

I was wondering if that is the same issue or not at 2.4G? I know milage varies

with quality.

http://www.aaradio.com/belton/Catalog_Site/Connectors.html

If you then need N-Female, get a N Fem->Fem adapter.

Sometimes I have seen them at swapfests, the vendors who have bins of different NEW connectors.

We had a great turn out for the Henderson Emergency Services Appreciation Day. We talked to many older hams and many young people that were very interested in the computer side of Ham radio. We may get some more youth involved in the future! Here are some pictures:

Hope I am placing this in the correct area :)

Anyone have suggestions on what adapters to use to go from RP-TNC to

N male or female?

I already have a few surplus 2.4G antennas, both vertical and BBQ dish

type that I aqcuired back when HSMM was trying to get going about 10

years ago. Never did anything with them and still sitting here in storage

for a good use.

Otherwise, I will just use the stock antennas for now.

Considering putting one mesh node up in the attic and then seeing about

tunnelling that to one of the other groups. Way I figure, if its up and doing

something other than gathering dust, it may generate interest.

James W8ISS

Lincoln Park, MI

EN82jg

OK, I start off with a 4x4x4 (or was it 6x6x6... cant remember now, but I do remember the cam just fit), and tilted the box on its side.

I then cut a hole in the lid of the box and siliconed in some clear acrylic. Thats what the cam sees out of. (hint---in the cam settings, turn off the activity LED, or it will reflect off the acrylic   )

A hole in the (normal) bottom of the box just big enough to fit the bolt that will hold the cam (1/4-20?). I put a locking nut (with plastic insert) on that bolt just inside the box, but not tight against the plastic, so I could turn the bolt and thread it into the back of the cam, but keep the cam from going too far back into the box.The locknut just slips on the inside of the plastic box.

The cam uses 5VDC, so I had a 2W 12VDC-> 5VDC regulator on a heatsink. Thats in the mesh node box, since I figure better heat dissipation in there (more room). Then the 5VDC output goes over the CAT5 PoE style, with one cable going through a small hole in the (new) bottom of the cam box, where I split off to an RJ45 and barrel connector to the camera. I left that hole unsealed as a weep hole.

In case some heat builds up in there, I used a dremel with a thin cutting wheel to cut 3 or 4 slotted louvered slots in the 2 sides upwards. Keeps out the rain but lets some air move.

Its been up there over a year, and suffered through that horrible summer we had last year, 105*F+ every day for a few months here in Central Texas, and its still kickin'.

The only issue I have seen with that camera is the focus. I have set it perfect, then after some jiggling of the camera (putting the push up pole up, etc) it seems to have gone out just a little. I even taped down the focus ring around the lens, and it still did, which makes me wonder if its something internal to the lens that is loose? Its 'OK', but Id prefer it to be better.

I will be taking the thing down sometime to change some other hardware, and I may try and refocus it again. Plus I want to see how it has fared.

Let me know what you come up with!

Jim

Yes, Sly n5gqb, I've given it a good bit of thought and here's my idea:

Leave the waterproof bucket lid alone. It's perfect as is. "What?" you say. Yep, leave the bucket lid alone and think outside the box, er 'bucket'.

Side-mounted mast:

• Waterproof lid. Original lid is not altered in any way. That's as waterproof as you can get.
  
• Side-mounted mast eliminates hand pinch between center mounted mast and bucket handle when being carried.

Ballast - by far the least expensive permanent ballast is concrete. One 50lb bag per bucket, cost a couple of dollars at the local hardware. Fill the bucket as high as you'd like with concrete, can even mix it IN the bucket if you'd like! Remaining space can store battery, etc.

Battery Box - expand on the above idea by suspending a plywood form the size of your battery in the bucket prior to filling with concrete. Once the concrete sets, remove the form and you have a battery box cast into the concrete itself. Making the form a bit taller than your battery will allow you to cast the battery box a bit deeper than the actual battery, protecting the terminals. Battery box form options are many:

• finger holes - 45 degree wedges added to the form will leave 'finger assist' ramps in the concrete to aid removing the battery from the battery box.
• battery hold down - add a cross bar (a few inches wider than the form, with a hole at each end) to the top of the form. Suspend a bolt (head down, washer/nut above the bar) from each end of this crossbar when casting concrete. When the form is removed it leaves two studs behind in the concrete to secure a battery hold down bar, preventing the battery from falling out if the bucket falls over.
• drain hole - add a dowel to the bottom of your form that reaches the bottom of the bucket. This leaves a drain hole through the concrete. Drill a matching hole in the bottom of the bucket and you have a way for any moisture in the bucket to escape
• line cord opening - If you're using the Belkin 12 volt DC UPS instead of a battery consider the following. Add a removable horizontal dowel to the side of your UPS box form that leads to the side of the bucket, passing through the bucket wall via a pre-drilled hole. Once the concrete is set this dowel is pulled out from the side before removing the form from above. You are left with UPS box formed in the concrete with a tunnel for the line cord to pass through.
  

Combine side-mount mast with concrete ballast idea as follows:

• Get two 6-8" 3/16 or 1/4 carriage bolts, lots of washers and four nuts.
• Hold mast vertically outside of bucket and drill two holes through both sides of mast and the bucket wall. Make lower hole an inch up from the base of the bucket and the upper hole about an inch below the planned top level of the concrete you will pour later.
• Run a nut about 3-4 inches onto each carriage bolt followed by a washer.
• Insert the bolts from the inside of the bucket through bucket wall.
• On the top bolt add additional washers as spacers between the outside of the bucket and the mast so the mast clears the lid of the bucket.
  
• On the bottom bolt add even more washers as spacers between the outside of the bucket and the mast in order to bring the mast into vertical. Requires more washers than the top because the bucket body is tapered.
• Slide mast onto studs secure with a washer and nut tightened so minimal bolt/nut are exposed on the outer side of the mast.
• Take up any slack using the nuts inside the bucket and you're left with the mast bolted to the bucket and 3-5 inches of carriage bolt extending into the inside of the bucket.
• Pour concrete.
• Once dried your all set with a mast semi permanently attached to the outside of the bucket. Remove the nuts/washers to remove the mast for transport/storage or leave it permanently attached. Substitute wing nuts on the outside for quicker set up /tear down.
• Combine this idea with a battery box cast in the concrete and you've really got something special.
• All that's left to do is drill a hole in the bucket & mast, add grommets, then route your PoE cable. Optionally you could eliminate the hole & grommet in the mast and simply feed the PoE cable into the open lower end of the mast, gently guiding it upward past the two mounting studs.
  

I haven't done it yet, but that's my plan.

• Simple!
• Weatherproof!!
• Cheap!!!

I can't see a downside. What do you think?

Matt - San Antonio

Hi Brian,

All you need is an IP camera that has a RJ-45 connection on the back to connect to the node.

http://www.hsmm-mesh.org/applications-for-the-mesh/123-tower-cam-via-mesh.html is my setup on my 45' pole. The bottom picture is live video from my tower right now.

It uses the Trendnet TV IP110 camera, which sells for around $65-70. It basically has its own web server built in, to serve up the video, and for the owner to adjust settings.

It DOES require the user to allow the java to run in the browser, but it is by far the easiest camera for anyone out there, for the price. AND WARNING WILL ROBINSON... it runs on 5VDC !!!

Some cameras require the end viewer to install extra software, etc to see the video.

More expensive cameras may output video without needing to run the java stuff.

I would like to use HSMM-MESH for a video feed for an EM exercise.  What do I need to connect the camera to the mesh?  Do I use a video encoder such as http://www.axis.com/products/cam_m7001/.  The goal is to send video from the command post overlooking the incident back to the EOC.

Thanks

Brian, AG4BC

So any ideas for outdoor deployment with the lollypop setup? That is water proofing the bucket where the pipe penetrates and the top of pipe/mast? We have thought about deploying a few of these along a parade route with cameras (X-Mas later this year) but would need to be water proofed in case of rain. I have a few ideas but would like to hear what anyone else has. The router would be placed in a exterior grade irrigation box at the top, still trying to figure the best way to weather proof the camera.

On the other hand..the 10' height of the standard lollypop height may not be enough. I guess it would depend on distance apart and LOS.

Among other thoughts, I am looking at other ways to weight the bucket. One is with sand, the pipe could be easily pushed thru the sand (at least I think) to the bottom of the bucket and into a hole bored into a 2x4 at the bottom of the bucket the size of the pipe (or a bit larger). The 2x4 would be caulked/glued to the bucket bottom and would span the width of the bucket. The bucket would be about 1/3 - 1/2 full of sand to allow room for the BelkinUPS and a towel or other cloth on top of the sand. A small hole drilled into side of pipe (deburred or grommeted) to insert PoE up thru pipe.

I'll also look into the Lifting weight idea someone else mentioned, depends on how much these weights cost though. 

Thx Sly n5gqb

Hi Mark, I am new to HSMM-MESH. I have six routers with the firmware installed but I cannot get Focus VideoPhone or D-RATS to connect to the computers. The setup for Focus Video Phone seemed very clear but when I call the other computer, after several seconds I get a message that it cannot connect suggesting an error in the address. Any thoughts on what I should try? Thanks. Dave Riddle KD9AC Charleston, IL

I found my problem. Reinstaled Windows and everything OK.